COLD weather riding dressing, prepping, riding.

This is a (hopefully) simple guideline about dressing and preparing for cold weather riding, randonneuring, and commuting.  

There is a lot to consider, otherwise - well, everyone would do it.  Below is the culmination of years of trial and error, sometimes facing the cold with too much on, sometimes not nearly enough.  Also, a few notes on equipment - because your bike needs a little consideration for winter riding, as well.

Hopefully, I'll remember this as I type... but my hope was to make this into a reference-style post.  

Scroll to find your category, and read on:

Disclaimers:

  Tolerance for heat and cold is a very personal matter.  Those that were raised in northern climes are still convinced, even after decades of living here, that it's not "cold" in the midwest.  There are others that come from Alaska and swear it's worse here.  There are some folks from Arizona that think we're stupid for going outside when it's below 50ºF.  SO, find out where you are, and adjust accordingly.  For the record, I have lived and ridden in Kansas and Missouri all my life, and commuted to and from work here for a decade or so.  I hope to shed some amount of light on how to dress and "survive" when the thermometer barely moves above the teens.  For those seeking a car-free existence, or looking to complete an R-12 in questionable conditions, hopefully you'll find some things in here that will help!  Finally, dressing for cold weather is dynamic, and often depends on a few factors:  How used to the conditions are you?  What was the temperature yesterday?  Is it windy?  

I am always a little amazed how my wardrobe changes as the winter season plays out.  Much of this is due to an annual progression from early-season over-estimation, to late-season acclimatization.  For the most part, how you dress on Dec 21st will generally be heavier than how you dress on March 21st - assuming the temperatures and conditions on those two days are identical.  People are very adaptable - and you'll amaze yourself, eventually, with how little you really need to wear to go for a 50 mile ride when it's 20 degrees outside.

Big note:  I'm a cyclist, and a gear geek:  there are MANY MANY MANY commuters and riders that dress for the cold like they'd dress if they were hiking or walking in the cold.  Just normal long-sleeved t-shirts, thick sweatshirts, snow pants, a jacket or hoodie, sweaters, beanie caps, whatever.  You can go either way, and it works every day.  But, this article/post is mainly geared towards fitness cycling, long-distance cycling - activities where technical and fitted cycling clothing becomes more important.  Necessary, no.  My preference, yes.

(All references to temperature are in Fahrenheit)

In no particular order, winter dressing for your various body zones:

- FEET:  People's extremities take a beating in cold weather, feet at the top of that list.  My first season below freezing was pretty rough, because I ignored an important thing:  Circulation problems:  Numbness can feel a lot like coldness if things are too tight at your feet.  It materializes very differently if it happens in warm weather, so when it happens in cold it's easy to blame the shoes and/or the socks.  Basically, don't layer up TOO much.  It's better, generally, to add a shoe cover over the outside than it is to add another pair of socks inside shoes that are sized for summer-weight socks.  Shoe covers have gotten really good in the past five years, and mine seem to work fine down to about 25 degrees.  Unfortunately, below that there isn't much I can do -- which answers the question you might have asked a second ago:  If I can't add socks, and shoe covers are only good down to "xx" degrees... what DO I do?  Well, it's a hard pill to swallow, but you have to get thicker, more specific shoes.  One easy way:  and something you might already own are good winter boots, like hiking boots or the like - and then simply run flat pedals.  If you are addicted to clipless pedals like I am, you have to pony up for winter-specific boots.  There are many to choose from, but shop carefully:  just like different people have differing views on what is "cold", so do manufacturers.  Audition them, find a store that carries them, and look them over.  Some "winter shoes" are simply summer shoes without vents, offering little in the way of insulation.  Some manufacturers go from demographics -- if the "majority" of the nation isn't riding a bike below 40 degrees, why make a shoe for it that might not sell?  There are others - like Lake, for example, that make serious winter cycling shoes.  If you can't find one that works for you there are, to the non-clipless option, lots of companies that make good winter hiking boots.  Flat pedals, toe straps, go.

No matter what you choose, however, wear two pairs of socks when you try them on, and thereby size them larger than your summer shoes.  If you can wiggle your toes with two pairs of socks in there, you won't have to battle numbness.

Socks?  Wool, please.  Calf-length wool socks help leg warmers work better, also.  Not too thick... bulk doesn't always equal warmth... technical, thin wool socks work really well, and stay up while you ride. 

Layering? For the feet? It can be done, yes - as alluded to, you should make sure your boots/shoes for winter have wiggle room to spare, to prevent circulation problems, so you must keep this in mind when layering socks inside them. Similar to methods that will repeat in this post, try a thin summer-time cycling sock underneath a thicker wool sock - and you may extend your comfort down another 15-20 degrees lower than normal. Finally, for a really cold battle, add a layer to the outside by purchasing oversized shoe covers that will work over the top of your bulkier winter boots. Just one more layer to stop the wind, and keep in heat - and it won't squeeze your feet. With this method, you may be able to ride well into negative temps.

- HANDS:  Gloves can cause the same numbness problems that plague feet in winter weather, so this is something that regardless of what you end up buying or using, size things larger than you might think you need.  Not huge -- just not tight.  Taking into account the many varieties of summer gloves with their gel padding and body-specific gels and such, there is real weight to the issues of bike fit and hand numbness out there already -- so, in winter when you don't use those padded gloves, you may find that numbness problems of a different kind might arise.  Those factors, just like for feet, can make your fingertips feel like they are succumbing to frostbite, even under the most expensive and well insulated gloves.  One of my solutions was to size the winter gloves large enough to allow fitting a regular summer glove underneath.  Not a huge deal for commutes, but quite a big deal for cold metric centuries and beyond.  

Gloves?  Aside from incorporation of a summer glove for specific padding, I have tried a LOT of different gloves from a LOT of different manufacturers.  

Manufacturers of cycling equipment, I've found, in most cases can only be "trusted" to market "winter" gloves to the majority - some full finger gloves with hefty price tags only feel comfy down to about 40 degrees.  Below that, if you've sized them big, you can add glove liners either made of silk or some techy fiber.  Or, you can add a layer on the outside.  Just like on the feet, layering on the hands is quite effective and can accommodate temperature shifts on longer rides.  After a lot of expensive playing around, I finally found the best cold weather gloves for me.  There is a good chance they will work for you, also.  It's cheap enough to try, just to see if that's the case.  Any military surplus store, those "ugly" green Army-issue wool gloves.  $5.00 a pair, at last check.  Buy a few pair.  I bought mine in 2004, and they still haven't worn out.  That's my base layer, and the wool alone is good to 45 degrees.  Below that, I add a glove shell.  (what's that?)  These might be hard to find, but basically it's a cycling glove that is made out of slightly reinforced wind-breaker material.  Pearl Izumi calls theirs the "Zephyr".  This doesn't add any bulk or insulation, but it keeps the wind out of the wool gloves.  With that, I'm comfortable in wool gloves with these glove shells down to 25 degrees.  Buy the shells big, to not squeeze your wool-gloved hand.  Below 25 degrees, I add another layer:  the biggest size I could find of mitts made with Polartec fleece.  Polartec is a fabric and textile maker, so you can find their tag on many different manufacturer's gloves and mitts, even jackets, etc.  Again, the cycling manufacturers generally don't make gear that goes this cold, and these mitts were indeed purchased at a local ski store.  Shop around for other cold weather sports - like skiiing - to find the stuff the cycling companies don't make, and see if you can adapt it.  

The mitts on top of the glove shells and wool base gloves take me down to single digits.  The best thing about this triple layer system, it's perfect for midwestern winter days that start with a pre-dawn temperature of 12 and then heat up to nearly 50.  I can add or subtract layers as needed as the day plays out, and each individual layer isn't a hassle to store in a back pocket or in a bag.  There are many, many lobster claw gloves and winter gloves that are quite good - but many of them have a narrow temperature range.  Layering gives you a wider temperature range, more versatility, and it's generally a cheaper option.  

Note on geared bikes with regards to gloves: 

 Depending on your bicycle, specifically if you run gears or not, you might want to consider your glove choices.  Many, smartly, use a single-speed bike in the winter to cut down on maintenance - so you can wear ridiculous mitts, and not have to worry about fumbling with shifters.  Just make sure you don't buy something so thick that you can't use your brake levers!  On the other side of this coin, I've worn mitts and still managed to manipulate STI shifters, so it IS possible.  Keep the tags on, and your receipt, and take a test ride:  can you shift?  Then decide.  It might be a good time to, cost considered, think about a winter-specific bike.  If you find yourself riding and commuting in winter, keep your body comfortable first - then fuss over equipment.  Single speed or fixxie being one extreme, yes... but consider bar-end shifters, or down tube shifters:  either of those can be manipulated with minimal digital dexterity - so when your hands are all wrapped up, you can still move the shifter.

HEAD:  Again, circulation can be a problem -- but it's not as pronounced as with hands and feet.  Still, trying to jam your summer helmet over layers of winter headgear can potentially cause discomfort, at the very least - and could cause "head chills".  Everyone knows, most of your body heat escapes through your head.  Again, layering can be very effective here.  In most cases, I don't need to cover my ears until it's below 45 degrees.  Below that, safety, ear canal health, and comfort dictate when the ears should be covered.  I start simple, but always usually end up with a two-layer system.  There are many companies, cycling specific companies, that make good head covers of varying material.  Start with a thin layer, for helmet fit concerns.  Make sure it's a wicking fabric, and maybe has some extra thickness at the ear level.  Then, top it with a cycling cap - if you can find them stretchy, or sized - go big, again.  Why?  Well, it's an extra layer - and if the temperatures rise you can lose the ear protection and still have something covering your noggin.  Second, the visor helps tremendously with the low sun angle of winter, and keeps cold wind from hitting you squarely in the eyes.  If it rains or snows, all the better.  I seldom ride without a cycling cap, even in summer.  In winter, a wool cap is very nice if you can swing it.  The single layer over the ears is good enough down to probably the 25 degree range.  Below that, another layer is needed.  I use a thin balaclava from Craft, as opposed to a thick, insulated mega-balaclava, or neoprene mask.  Again, the layering, and getting everything under the helmet.  I wear that underneath the aforementioned ear-covering layer, and then the cap again.  The thin balaclava underneath it all works quite well, mainly because now my neck is covered - and the garment extends down under the collar of my jersey/jacket.  Keeping wind off the neck shields and insulates the carotid arteries, keeping the head warmer in the process.  This solution usually takes me into the single digits with ease.  Below that I have a rather large PolarMax (another textile company) fleece-lined balaclava:  this is pulled over the entire mix, adding an outer shell.  Honestly, even at zero degrees F, it is sometimes too much - so I reserve that outer layer for when it's really windy.

To avoid helmet fit problems, I have another neck shield in the form of an acrylic pullover collar - think of it as a scarf that's been sewn into a tube.  You can even make your own from an old scarf.  It sometimes takes the place of the larger, outer balaclava - but it's thick, fleecy, and can be pulled up to cover the nose and mouth.  While I sometimes find it difficult to breathe, or find myself feeling slightly claustrophobic, just shielding your mouth and chin makes a big difference when it's really cold.  

Helmet concerns?  Shop a clearance sale, and get an oversized, cheap helmet for winter use.  I don't condone riding without one, even if you have an inch of padded winter headgear on - pony up, and stay safe.  The cheap helmets have to pass the same certifications as the expensive ones - so you're not losing anything by going cheap - just a weight savings sacrifice.  But, you're wearing an extra five pounds of clothes this time of year anyways, right?

Facial hair:  yes, please.  Women, sorry -- full face balaclavas are a good idea.  But, men -- if you can, and have a tolerant spouse, grow it out.  It's natural, and it works marvelously.  Just remember to pause upon finishing your ride... wait... there will more than likely be ice frozen through your balaclava from condensed and frozen breath, and onto your beard.  Patience.. if you don't remember right away, the first good tug will remind you. 

Face and eyes:  I wear RX glasses, so this is a no-brainer -- but protect your eyes.  There is blinding snow, low-sun and bright reflections, and stinging wind.  A good pair of big coverage eyewear can make a big difference.  

LEGS:  First and foremost, protect your knees.  Little else on your body does so much for cycling, but has so little external protection.  Look at them:  no muscle, little fat, little tissue at all.  Wear knee warmers below 60-65 degrees, and you'll still be able to walk around when you're 75 years old.  It's cumulative, yes.  Protect them.  Sure, there are exceptions - and sometimes you can tolerate 50 degrees at the start of a spring ride because it'll be 70 in an hour.  Just be careful.  Riding an hour in 50 degree rain without knee warmers will make you rethink your whole life, tho - at least in my experience.  Colder than 50, it's a good idea to switch to leg warmers, to begin protecting your calves.  At about 40 degrees, leg warmers paired with those long, calf-length wool socks are really cozy.  All of this with just normal, summer riding shorts is fine.  In fact, aside from the knees, the legs do almost all of the work of cycling and stay quite warm on their own - so you'll be surprised how little insulation you need here.  Below freezing, however, things change.  Summer shorts aren't enough, and the leg warmers start to feel thin.  Keep in mind, leg warmers come in many thicknesses and styles - mine have a very thin layer of fleece lining.  Some are really thick, some are nothing more than cycling shorts material in a different form.  So, shop carefully, again - as with anything else marketed as "cold weather" gear.

Tights?  Indeed... below freezing, for me.  And, I use the same layering strategy I've described everywhere else on the body.  With the same leg warmers and summer shorts for padding, I pull over a pair of PolarMax acrylic tights.  They are thin, allow movement, and add an amazing amount of warmth.  Wool here?  Well, probably -- if I could afford it.  I've yet to add wool tights to my arsenal, but I'm told they work marvelously - and honestly if I was riding in a 40 degree rain, I'd REALLY want them.  There is nothing else that works are well when it's wet, and it's got a very wide temperature range - so, say on brevet, you won't find yourself stopping to re-arrange layers every 15 degrees of temperature rise/fall.  The PolarMax tights, leg warmers and shorts - with those nice long socks - works perfectly right down to about 15 degrees.  Below that, I can start to feel my knees wonder what happened... so I add - yes - another layer.  This time, these are over-sized (for the same circulation reasons outlined before) outer-layer tights, cycling specific.  This is where cycling-specific marketing goes the other way:  opposed to gloves and shoes, there are a lot of good cycling tights that can go really cold.  I bought a modest pair, and use those over the top of the PolarMax thin tights, summer shorts, leg warmers and all.  With those layers, I've been down to almost minus-10 F without problems.

ARMS:  Arm warmers are great, but similar to leg warmers there are many thicknesses and styles.  There are wool, there are Spandex, Coolmax - there are even summer cooling style arm COVERS (to be clear, specifically NOT warmers at all) - so shop carefully.  Wool, like anywhere else, works great here also.  I find arm warmers as a transitional piece:  spring and fall, mainly - not winter.  If it's going to be in the 70s in the afternoon, but starts in the high 40s, they're perfect, paired with appropriate core protection.  They can be used for layering, however, if you don't want to invest in long-sleeved jerseys or winter jerseys.

For the most part, when it's cold and you are planning on riding below freezing, it's time to make some purchases beyond just arm warmers, perhaps.  That's, at least, the road I took.

CORE:  Base layers - yes, a repeating take-away theme in this post is layering, layering, layering.  Good wicking, good moisture transfer, and versatility.  Starting at the core with a good, winter base layer can literally make all the difference.  I don't want to push one manufacturer's products too heavily here, but I feel compelled to on the subject of core base layers:  The technical expertise Craft has brought to winter sports is legendary:  quite literally, the Craft "Pro Warm" base layer is SO effective at retaining heat and wicking moisture, I can wear it by itself down to 35 degrees.  This is what finally drove home that layering with summer base layers, a summer jersey and arm warmers - while effective - was adding bulk with little consequence.  With a single garment - yes, at a price - I was able to add a ton of warmth.  Keeping the core warmer meant that I could actually trim back layers at the extremities at "xx" temperature.  Very effective, and worth it.  Wool base layers, I can imagine are just as effective - and will indeed have a wider temperature range than the Craft piece.  That's another example of wearing something when I know it's going to STAY cold... because much above 40 degrees, the Craft base layer is too much.  With a wool base layer, I doubt the upper limit would come as fast.  So, with a good winter base layer, a long sleeve jersey with a little loft to it and an outer barrier I am cozy down to the single digits, without question.  I have an acrylic, thin fall/spring jacket that I will sometimes layer under my outer barrier jacket, and that takes me well below zero without issue.  Above all else, make sure you aren't losing the battle for warmth by having any exposed skin.  One common area, the small of your back:  if you do have a nice base layer, tuck it into your shorts.  Even if your jersey or jacket rides up while your ride, you're still covered. 

Long sleeve jerseys:  Shop carefully - you'll quickly see that there are "long sleeved" jerseys that are summer-weight fabric, and then actual "winter" jerseys, with insulation - maybe even technical wind-blocking panels sewn in.  For the money, take the time to read up, try them on, feel them.  

Barriers?  Riding with just a base layer and a long-sleeve jersey - maybe a wind vest - is usually comfortable down to freezing, but below that you need to start slowing down and limiting the wind that moves over your body.  Keeping carefully in mind that you shouldn't close yourself off is important -- moisture transfer and wicking can't occur if air isn't moving around your core, head, arms, etc.  Yes, below freezing, you need to add some protection - but be careful, and keep the moisture transfer in motion.  "Barrier" might be a misnomer:  just outer-layering might be a better term.  I have a fleece pullover with a nice, cozy high collar that I'll use.  It slows the wind hitting my body down, but doesn't block it completely.  That's usually good to the 25 degree range.  My core stays warm, but I feel a little hint of chilly air moving about me -- not enough to chill me, but enough to let me know that the sweat I'm working up while climbing hills is getting safely channeled to the atmosphere.  To block a cold headwind, I'll use a wind vest with an open back.  My front stays warm, but moisture still gets pulled from my back.  Part of the amazing effectiveness of the Craft base layer is that first step of moisture movement... but you have to keep it going.  Jackets are great, but look for ones that have some sort of venting, or breathing capacity.  You can spend a lot of money here - the outer winter layer is possibly the most expensive piece of cycling clothing you'll ever purchase.  Shop carefully.  The right fabrics, you'll be surprised how thin they can be - while still being able to take you comfortably down into the single digits.  There are a lot to choose from.

More notes on SWEAT, and heat control:

A Les Stroud "Survivorman" quote:  in the winter, "if you sweat, you die."  Hypothermia.  Inability to maintain core temperature.  This is not brought on solely by cold, it's brought on by cold and wet.  So, yes - as a cyclist, riding, you will sweat... you just need to control how that sweat gets moved away from your core to evaporate safely away.  That means, initially, you may be chilly at the onset of a ride -- that's normal:  pedal in earnest until you warm up.  Barriers are important - but remember to use your pit zips if you have them, move your zipper up and down, and if you have removable sleeves, remove them if it warms up.  With proper core layering, your arms can act as heat exchangers - keep them covered, though, not fully exposed... just not covered with jacket material.  It's the same problem many rain jackets suffer from.  Anyone that's ridden with one knows the inside can get just as soaked as the outside on a warmish day - because generally that fabric doesn't breathe at all... in the cold, that prospect is just dangerous.  Don't get drenched with sweat.  Period.  Strange as it sounds, you'll know it when it happens -- if you feel yourself getting too hot, regardless of the temperature, unzip your barrier, and let the breeze in.  Dry out.  

Artificial heat? There are many sources for cheap chemical warmers, and some companies that market toward year-round motorcyclists and snowmobilers make things like "electric socks and mitts", but alas I've never tried them. Generally, I have enough worries about headlight and taillight batteries, so I don't know if the thought of juggling and charging warmer batteries would be entertained. Further, they are generally cost-prohibitive - and, thinking that snowmobile and motorcycle use probably doesn't involve a lot of natural heat generation (from your body movements), that when used in conjunction with pedaling a bicycle they would probably prove too much, even at low settings. Chemical warmers, however, don't require batteries, are stowable easily, and can be integrated in between or inside layers and pockets. They are also biodegradable - so your enviromental impact is minimal. Hands and feet may be the best beneficiaries here, but make sure that shoving a chem warmer into your boots won't cause pinch-points or circulation problems - same with gloves. If you sized your outer mitts correctly, you might have room to spare - so when it's really cold, why not? Anything to keep frostbite at bay.

Therein lies the goal of all this: starting at the core, proper dressing and layering will keep your internal organs toasty. Excess heat spreads to your limbs and extremities: keep it there with smart layering at your arms, legs, head, feet, hands and you'll survive any winter activity. Keep yourself warm, dry, and if you start having the shivers or things go numb WITHOUT circulation to blame, get back inside, thaw out carefully, drink something warm, rest up. Frostbite takes many toes and fingers with it every year - be smart, and always listen to your body.

Equipment?  

The bicycle itself, no worries.  Generally speaking, everything that works at 80 degrees will still work at minus-40.... unless water gets into it and freezes, that is.  Again, single-speed bicycles sometimes have the upper hand here.  For good reason, maintenance and shifting isn't a concern - staying warm, and not having any mechanical worries is.  SO, before you pull your summer race bike down and hit the cold highways, make some notes, and changes if needed.

Realistically, there's no reason your regular road bike wouldn't work just because it's cold.  

TIRES should be more robust this time of year, maybe tire liners coming into rotation, tube sealant.  The cold brings snow and ice, which brings salt and sand to the streets - and sharp glass shards and tiny sharp rocks.  Flats can become more common.  Watch your line, avoid obstacles safely if you can help it.  To the points about sweat and proper dressing - you may think, BAH... I'll sweat all I like, what could happen?  Well, you could be all overheated on a long climb, and then get a double blowout.  And there you are, all sweaty, standing on the side of the road with your gloves off, trying to fix two flats, with wind and temps in the teens.  Not a good time, and dangerous.  I've had the deep, deep shivers of hypothermia, and it ain't fresh.  Avoid that scenario.

Specifics:  Specialized Armadillo Elite tires, Bontrager Hard Case tires, Panaracer tires with ProTex casing, Vittoria Randonneur tires.

Strong, very flat-resistant...  light?  NO.  Who cares?  It's winter.  

Your kit should evolve:  carry tubes, not patches.  Carry a mini- or frame-pump.  Compressed CO2 cartridges don't provide enough pressure or expansion below freezing to fully inflate a tire.  Carry a good tire lever, like a Quik-Stik, and know how to use it.  Practice fast flat changes to get yourself back on the bike, with warmth left in your body.  Be sure to check the tire for the offending sharp... lest you get a repeat flat in a few dozen yards.  

CHAIN LUBE AND MAINTENANCE becomes more important this time of year with all the sand and crud on the road.  IF you are running expensive gear, it might be a good time to rotate in the "training" wheelset, or junk cassette.  Again, single-speed and fixed gear.. you start to see why they are so popular for winter riding.  It's the "off" season, right?  Build one up... it's more fun than you think, easy, pure, and you don't have to spend three hours in the garage de-crudding your expensive summer stuff when you're done.  Must have gears?  Internally-geared hubs with up to 14 speeds are available - pick your price.  I recommend the Shimano Nexus 8-speed "Red Band" hubs, or the tougher Alfine model.  Solid.

Either way, use a good lube on the chain, and lube often.  

FENDERS are almost essential if you're riding in winter, in my opinion.  If it's going to stay below freezing, that's one thing - no worries, generally.  But, if it rises above freezing during your ride, or the streets have been chemically treated to thaw at lower temps, you can end up with a very cold backside - not to mention a nice salty residue all over your bike.  Not cool, and potentially expensive.  Fenders, if your bike allows, help prevent all this.

SO, now that you're dressed and geared up - how do you get the gumption to RIDE in this stuff? 

Well, this is probably the best advice I can give - and it comes from the slogan of a (sadly) out-of-business outdoors equipment manufacturer:

Dress quickly - Go outside.  

My interpretation of this is simply, don't think about it too much.  Preparedness is key and, yes, gear makes a difference - otherwise it wouldn't take up so much space here.  If the conditions outside give you good, clear roads, don't over-think the conditions.  Suit up quickly - Commit.  Have all your stuff ready, dress, open the garage, and get moving.  The first three miles are the hardest:  sprint.  Once your internal furnace gets fired up, you can maintain a nice cushion of warmth that will soon have you unzipping layers and smiling.  For brevets, go inside at controls - warm up - keep moving, get rolling again fast.  The key is keeping that "I'm working" heat cushion alive, carefully balanced against sweat evaporation, and you'll do fine.

Finally, in closing - I have a lot of answers here that have worked out for ME, and again this is all very personal -- but the one resource I have gone to again and again is IceBike.  These guys know COLD, there are a LOT of product reviews and resources, and some links to some good products.  Check them out, please:

Some of the info is a few years old now, but it's still very relevant.

www.icebike.com

- I always welcome questions, and am happy to chat:  hit me:  commuterDude

Thanks for reading, and get out there!